Jacket Constructions Explained:
Full & Half Canvas vs Fused
Think of jacket’s construction as three-dimensional: the cloth on the outside and the lining on the inside, which you can see and the interlining, that goes in between and you cannot see. It is the interlining material which is being referred to when we speak of half, full canvas or fused constructions for jackets.
Why do you need interlining?
The interlining plays an important role in how the suit fits and how long it will last. It gives shape to the garment, preventing it from sagging and deforming.
Fused Interlining is a thin layer of fabric that is heated and pressed/glued to the fabric from the inside. Overwhelming majority of garments sold in retail are made with fused interlining due to its cost efficiency and ease of mass production. It does the basic job of giving shape to the garment. The downside is that although holding its shape the garment will be stiff and after a few visits to the dry cleaning you may notice that the fusing on the inside is starting to come off and the fabric on the outside is starting to bubble. The fabric will not follow your natural movements, hence it is less comfortable and will not provide as great a fit as the canvassed jacket would. Another disadvantage of the fused/glued jacket is that the glue is insulating and not breathable. It will also not provide for a good roll on the lapel.
Canvas is the interlining made of linen or horse hair sewn to the fabric, horse hair providing for a stiffer, heavier construction. It is time-consuming and hence more expensive to add canvas into the construction, however when you buy from high-end retailers or go to a bespoke tailor this is the standard you should expect, but do double check what you are being offered. The advantages of having a canvassed jacket is that the interlining moves with your body, you probably also heard it being referred to as floating canvas for that reason.Over time the canvas moulds to your body’s shape and the fit of the jacket improves. The jacket will feel somewhat heavier, but it will have a beautiful crisp look about it.
Half Canvas vs Full Canvas
Half canvas is a blend of the two: the jacket will use canvas on the chest, lapels and all the way to the pockets with the lower part of the jacket being fused. It’s called half canvas but in fact, it’s more of a 2/3 canvas with 1/3 of a fused interlining.
How to tell if the jacket is canvassed or fused?
The sleeves of the jacket are not canvassed, pinch one to get a feel for the fabric’s thickness. Then gently pinch the fabric on the chest from outside and inside and pull the layers apart slightly. Do you feel a third layer in between? If so, the jacket is canvassed. Or, if you don’t feel a third layer and the fabric on the outside feels stiff compared to the fabric on the sleeve, it is very likely that the jacket is fused.
Artefact London sartorial standards
At Artefact London we construct suits bespoke to your requirements inside and out. We do half canvassed constructions as standard as well as full canvas upon request.
Written by Tatyana Kozhevnikova
Text Copyright Artefact London
20th Sep 2016