What can the groom wear?
We would like to share some of the wedding suit related FAQs.
Overall, remember: your wedding your rules!
Whether you chose a very formal or a casual setting to celebrate tying the knot, whether your guest list counts hundreds of invitees or just close family & friends you are within your right to decide the dress code for yourself and the guests.
Below are some of the questions many grooms ask and we hope you find the answers useful in deciding your own attire. Tatyana, founder of Artefact London, gives a practical tailor’s perspective on what the groom can wear.
Is a three piece suit a good idea for a summer wedding? Would I be too warm?
I see three piece suits are making a big return, with a waistcoat adding quite some debonair to the man’s look. Realistically, on a warm summer day you will feel rather uncomfortable wearing another layer under your jacket. However, I still recommend the grooms add the waistcoat. The reason being not to wear the two in tandem, but rather so that you can swap the jacket for a waistcoat when it gets too warm, but you still want to keep your look formal. This way the groom can have three different looks on the day: waistcoat & jacket, just jacket, waistcoat only.
What shall I wear to a beach wedding? Can I wear a wool suit?
You can absolutely wear a suit made of wool to a beach wedding. Ask your tailor for a lightweight wool below 250gr in weight and a cotton or silk lining on the inside would be ideal to keep you cool. With beach weddings it is always best to go for light colours such as light grey & beige for more formal settings; light blue & sage would work great for more colourful & relaxed atmospheres. Don’t got for dark colours as they absorb all wavelengths of light and convert them into heat increasing your body temperature. Light colours reflect all wavelengths of light, so the light is not converted into heat and your body temperature is not affected..
Can I wear a linen suit?
Linen has got a beautiful texture about it, but it creases easily. Another important trait of linen is that when you sweat and stretch the fabric, it starts to sag. Linen will not regain its formal shape until you wash it, whereas wool & cotton for example will ‘bounce back’ to its shape when you stretch it. Wool has much better crease resistance than linen & cotton.I still love linen though and it works great for beach weddings! I would say yes to a linen jacket, but no to linen trousers for the above mentioned reasons. With linen I would make the fit of the jacket that tiny little bit looser than on a wool jacket so that the garment does not stretch and loose it’s shape with your movement. Pair your linen jacket with lightweight cotton trousers of contrasting colour.
Are narrow lapels a suitable look for the wedding suit?
Lapel width should be proportionate to the width of your shoulders. Wider shoulders require a slightly wider lapel to keep balanced proportions. Ask your tailor what would be the best lapel width for your body for a balanced look. Same goes to the length of the jacket, ask your tailor to get the right visual balance. A jacket that is just 2cm longer than necessary can visually cut your legs short, but you will not be able to shorten it as the pockets become too close to the bottom of the jacket.Overall narrow lapels are in fashion, but I do not anticipate this will continue for long, they remind me of office suits a lot. I would say steer clear of the narrow lapel look for your wedding.
Should I go double or single breasted on the jacket?
Just like three piece suits, double breasted jackets are making a return. And I absolutely love the look. Bear in mind that one must always keep his double breasted jacket closed, unlike the single breasted jacket which you can unbutton. Consider if it would work in the climate where you are having the wedding.Many people think double breasted can make you look shorter and visually add weight. That may have been the case in the past when double breasted jackets had a boxier shape to them. If you get your DB jacket tailor made with a degree of weight suppression and in the right length for your torso vs legs you can actually visually shed pounds off. Some double-breasted jackets have six or eight external buttons, which is more traditional, while others have two or four, which is more flattering if you’re on the shorter side. No matter how many buttons your jacket has, always leave the bottom button unfastened, just like a single-breasted suit—but button the bottom interior button, so the jacket stays closed and lays flat. A double-breasted suit jacket is typically a bit longer in order to create space for the bigger lapel and the button motif, however avoid too long jackets as they visually cut your legs short.
How much is reasonable to spend on a wedding suit?
How much did the bride spend on the dress? Yes, sure, the day is all about the bride. The groom should not try to steal her thunder, but I believe the groom must keep up! And unlike the wedding dress the wedding suit can be worn to other special occasions. So how much to spend after all? I would say at least double of what you would spend on a usual business suit. It is a very special day after all.
Got more questions? Ask away!
written by Tatyana Kozhevnikova
text & images Copyright of Artefact London
February 2017