Tweed Fabric: History, Types, Weights, and Uses

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What is Tweed Fabric?


Tweed, known as “Clò-Mór, the Big Cloth”, is a type of wool from sheep breeds like the Scottish Cheviot and Blackface. Designed to resist heavy weathers. The tweed fabric is mostly used in hardy weather conditions for: trench coats, pants, hats, blazers, jackets, suits, military uniforms and other outwear.

It originated in Scotland and was used by ancient Scottish shepherds for centuries to resist the brutal force of highland winds. In the early years of the Industrial Revolution era (early 1800’s), the British/English Aristocracy started recognizing the durability and warm properties of the tweeds.. British elites, nobles, and military had commissioned a great amount of tweed fabric to be used as garments. In modern day Tweed is used to tailor timeless country style garments.


Tweed fabrics

Tweed Fabric Properties


Tweed possess the following properties:

  • Coarsely-woven wool yarn composition
  • High heat retention
  • Low stretchability
  • Low breathability
  • Low - mid absorbent
  • Prone to pilling

Tweed Fabric Types


There are many varieties of tweeds available. They differ in weight and feel. Here is a breakdown of the most popular ones.

Harris Tweed


Harris Tweed originated in Scotland and is considered the most famous tweed fabric.

  • It has an open twill weave.
  • Rough in texture.
  • Tends to be in rich heathered colour tones.
  • Typical weight is 15 to 21 oz.

Woven in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides by hand. Genuine Harris tweed is given the Orb Mark: a certification meaning it has been dyed, spun, and handwoven by the islanders of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland in their own homes.

Harris tweed sample

Donegal Tweed


As the name suggests, woven in Donegal, Ireland. Made of wool, sometimes mixed with viscose and cotton.

  • Coarse and rugged.
  • Has colorful wool flecks or “neps” scattered throughout.
  • Typical weight is approximately 7.87 oz to over 19 oz

Donegal tweed gives a more casual feel with its speckled appearance.

Donegal tweed sample

Cheviot Tweed


Cheviot tweed originated in Britain. The fabric is named after the Cheviot sheep that the wool comes from. Cheviot fiber is coarse and heavy, making the material hard wearing and heavy..

  • Heavy and stiff.
  • Durable.
  • 15oz is a typical weight.

It works best for countries that wear heavyweight clothing: coats and jackets. Used in upholstery & soft furnishings, curtains and kilts due to the fabric properties.

Cheviot tweed sample

Shetland Tweed


Shetland tweed originated in Scotland. The name of the tweed fabric came from the Shetland Island sheep.

  • Rustic feel, but Finer and softer than most tweeds
  • Lighter weight - 12 to 14 oz.
  • “Fluffy” texture
  • porous and breathable.

Shetland tweed jackets have a laid-back feel – the perfect smart-casual companion for chilly weather.

Shetland tweed sample

Saxony Tweed


Saxony tweed originated in Germany. Produced from Merino wool giving it a soft pile.

  • Softer and lighter than other traditional tweeds.
  • Remains Warm and Comfortable.
  • Typical weight is around 10-14 oz.

In the past, Saxony tweed was widely used in Germany for sports jackets and suits. A popular option due to the material softness in modern day tailoring.

Saxony tweed sample

Moorland Tweed


Moorland Tweed came from weaving houses inspired from the Scottish Highlands and moorland landscapes. The fabric is conceived as a country-suiting tweed to reflect the rugged terrain and subtle natural tones of those regions.

  • Woven from 100% worsted wool.
  • Uses two-ply yarns to create subtle colour variation.
  • Smoother and cleaner than traditional coarse tweeds.
  • Medium-to-heavy weight: 430 g per linear metre (13.5 oz).

Moorland Tweed works well for country suits, sports jackets, and jackets.

Moorland tweed sample

Sherry Tweed


Sherry Tweed comes from the wool-weaving tradition of the Scottish Borders, especially the historic Tweed Valley — a region long associated with producing robust cloth for estate and outdoor use.

  • Constructed from 100% lambswool (virgin wool)
  • Uses yarns dyed in multiple colours and blended before weaving
  • Cloth weight in standard offerings is about 340–380 g per linear metre (≈ 10–11 oz)
  • The weave and wool give it texture, warmth, and good insulation

Sherry Tweed is ideal for jackets, field wear, and outer garments. Best for those who appreciate a classic aesthetic, as well as garments meant for countryside or casual-country settings.

Sherry tweed sample

Tweed Fabric Weights


Tweed is generally medium-to-heavy, but weights vary. A useful guide:

Medium-weight tweed (most versatile)


10–14 oz is commonly considered the “do-most-things” range.
Best for: jackets, trousers, and autumn/winter suits.


Heavyweight tweed (winter cloth)


Greater than 14 oz is considered heavyweight.
Best for: warm winter jackets, outerwear, and climates where temperatures regularly drop below 0.


Rule of thumb


If you want one tweed jacket that goes everywhere, start around 12–13 oz—warm enough outside, still wearable indoors.

Note: Mills may quote weight in slightly different ways (oz per yard/metre, and widths vary). Use weight as a comparative guide, not an engineering specification.

How Much Does Tweed Cost?


Tweed fabric costs differ greatly depending on the brand and quality.

Prices vary by:

  • Fibre quality (pure wool vs blends)
  • Brand / mill / provenance
  • Certification (e.g., Orb-mark Harris Tweed)
  • Width, pattern complexity, and retailer margins

As a rough UK guide, some sources cite:

  • ~£15–£25 per metre for lower-quality or blended tweeds
  • Higher-quality tweeds cost more, especially certified cloths

Best Uses for Tweed in Tailoring


Tweed performs best when you lean into its strengths:

  • Sport coats / blazers: tweed’s “home territory”
  • Country suits: timeless & durable
  • Trousers: warm and hard-wearing
  • Overcoats: heavyweight tweeds
  • Accessories: caps, hats, and bags

How to Choose the Right Tweed (Fast Decision Guide)


Ask yourself:

When will you wear it?

  • Mostly outdoors / cold climate → heavier
  • Mostly indoors / mild climate → medium

Do you want texture or refinement?

  • Rugged texture → Donegal / Cheviot-style cloths
  • Cleaner finish → Saxony-style tweeds

Do you want heritage certification?

  • If yes, choose Orb-mark Harris Tweed.

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