Making a Difference with Mandarin or Nehru Collar Suit
Exceptional people make exceptional choices. Staying on the side of classy and all things refined, yet exceptional and one-of-a-kind, Mandarin and Nehru collar suits and shirts give their owner a sophisticated and elegant look. If this resonates with your style, let's explore these to expand your sartorial options and stand out on any occasion, be it formal or casual.
Origin of Mandarin Collar Suits
Designers and wearers use the term 'Mandarin collar' to refer to a stand collar on a shirt or a full-button jacket, similar to those found on some military uniforms. In fact, Mandarin collars have a long tradition of use in Western military jackets, for example, in the Prussian, Austrian, and British armies.
While ceding in popularity to the traditional lapel, stand collar suits and shirts occupy a strong place in smart casual and formal casual wear. Some of the most famous wearers include the likes of James Bond antagonist Blofeld in the movie Spectre or Elon Musk, who chose a Mandarin collar shirt for a vanity fair event welcoming his second child.
What Are Nehru Collar Suits?
Nehru collar is another name for a standing collar, coined after the iconic Indian politician Jawaharlal Nehru, who preferred this particular style of collared jacket. In the 60s of the last century, Nehru collars received a boost of popularity in the West due to the Beatles following the band's pivotal trip to India. All four of the Beatles were often seen wearing Nehru collar jackets and shirts both in India and after their return to England, in everyday life, as well as onstage.
Why Mandarin Collar Suits and Nehru Collar Shirts Are Popular in Europe?
Unlike what someone may assume from their name, lapel-less Mandarin or Nehru collars are not Chinese or Indian inventions. In fact, Western formalwear developed its own type of stand collar, very similar or even identical to its Eastern siblings.
For example, in Austria, a stand collar is standard for a 'janker'—a traditional jacket typically made of wool, worn by Austrians during formal occasions as well as for cultural and religious events. While the design and materials for a janker have developed over time, stand collar jackets and shirts continue to enjoy unwavering popularity in Austria and other countries of the German-speaking area.
Mandarin Collar vs. Nehru Collar vs. Stand Collar: What Is the Difference?
The terms Mandarin, Mao, Nehru, band and stand collar are used interchangeably to denominate a straight collar on a jacket or a shirt. If you are after a garment that would specifically reflect Asian culture such as Mandarin style, or Indian, like Nehru style, or European, like Austrian Loden, there are certain aspects that differentiate these.
When creating a garment with a stand collar in Mandarin style, silk fabric or shiny polyester mixes are often in use. Buttons made of pearls or colourful frogging—ornamental braidings to fasten the front of a garment—are used. Embroidery with golden and red threads can be added to create ornaments traditional to Chinese culture.
Similar to the Mandarin style, Nehru collar garments are made in ornamental brocade fabrics in various colours. One of the most popular examples of the Nehru style is an elongated waistcoat with a stand-up collar and multiple buttons.
An Austrian-style Loden jacket is typically made of heavier materials like wool and tweed. Green and brown palettes dominate the scene. Stag horn and metal buttons grace the front of the jacket. Contrasting cloth accents are often added to the collar and pockets.
Today, cultural styles have largely blended, and the distinctions among Nehru, Mao, and Loden garments have blurred. Hence, the terms Mandarin, Nehru, and Loden are now used to loosely describe the style of a jacket or waistcoat that has a stand-up collar as its main element.
Want a Bespoke Mandarin / Nehru / Mao Jacket or Suit ?
Get in Touch!